DAY 54 - 59, NPL

Day 54 - Norwegian weather.... Sigh.... 

I woke up to a rainy day with the worst headache. Therefore, I decided to take it easy by walking along the road. By noon I was out the door with a stomach full of oatmeal and ginger tea.

The weather was very unpredictable. Whenever I stopped to adjust my clothing, it changed. Rain. No sun. No rain.


After 8km, I could leave the main road and walk through a valley on a dirt road. It was nice and easy, but my insecurity grew with my tiredness. I was suddenly certain I had taken a wrong turn somewhere, and as I started to cry, I realized how tired I was. Learning from my earlier experiences, I decided to put up the tent instead of pushing on. Once I did, I immediately felt better.

Good girl!

Steps: 34667

Day 55 - It would be nice to do something else for a change

Tired. Of. This. Shit.

I was constantly looking at the map, checking how far I had walked and how far it was to go still. Enjoying the moment completely forgotten.

… And once upon a time, I had dry feet…

There were several cabins and emergency huts on today’s hike, and I entered all of them for a short break. To be able to get inside and take of my backpack for a little while, made a huge difference.


It wasn’t like I wanted to quit, but acknowledging that I was very tired of the life on the road. To go and find water, to carry my backpack, to pack and unpack. Every single day.


Dritt. Bæsj. Føkk.

Steps: 39859

Day 56 - Reward

My psyche today was quite the opposite from the day before. I took my time, picking both blueberries and cloudberries (a word I’ve only just learned, and I cannot thing of a more describing and fitting word! It’s so cute it makes me happy) along the trail.

For the last 5 days or so, the weather the stayed the same: a light drizzle of rain, the sun lurking beneath the clouds, refusing to come out. Childish! But to be honest, that's actually perfect hiking conditions. Not too cold, not too warm, so no complaints there.

But seriously sun, show yourself!


17 km later, I sat in the Sauvass cabin eating my dinner while considering another 12km hike, just to reach Umbukta Fjellstue, where I knew they had shower and food. And my next box of resupply.

Why not, I had plenty of energy.

The hike went smoothly, it was an easy 3 hours descend down the mountain. Easy, except the last muddy part. I don’t like mud much.


No available rooms and a closed café met me when I arrived Umbukta Fjellstue, but Sølve, one of the emplyees there, rising to the occasion, offered me tent space inside the big party tent they had in the back. And as for the café being closed, well, that didn’t stop Sølve from serving me food. His food, in fact. A huge plate of chicken and rice.

Inception-tent - a tent within a tent

Inception-tent - a tent within a tent

“But Sølve, I cannot eat your food.”

“Aaach, I don’t like rice much anyway.”


Steps: 43212


Day 57 – Umbukta Fjellstue

At Umbukta, I met three others also doing Norge på langs (NPL): Inger, Hans and Bård. The latter walking south like me, only a tiny bit faster. When he told me he had spent 30 days from North Cape, the words “What in God’s name are you made of? “ blurted out of me.


I had a wonderful rest day, doing some laundry and relaxing in the café. Inger and Hans went into town to do a bit of shopping, and when they came back, we ate dinner together. Afterwards, I went into my Inception-tent and watched the movie “Storks” on Netflix.


I haven’t enjoyed myself that much in a long time. Laying in my sleeping bag, watching a movie, listening to the rain hammering on the tent with a stomach full of meat, ice cream and (free) waffles.

Steps: 2832


Day 58 - Unexpected beauty

After a lengthy breakfast, and a waffle, a goodbye-present from Sølve, I continued my journey south. Inger walked me to the trail and I headed off feeling lighthearted.


I was prepared for a difficult day, a monstrous climb up the mountain through devious terrain. I kept waiting for the monstrosity I was promised, but it never came. What I did meet, was a beauty I find hard to describe.

Wild, running rivers crept over moss-covered stones like serpents. The warm light from the evening sun reflected in the icy blue glacier in the far distance of the snow covered mountains. I was filled with wonder and the beauty became my fuel.


I put up my tent at the foot of the mountain while the sun was setting.



Steps: 36282


Day 59 - Energy or no energy, that's the question

All the energy from the previous day evaporated within the first hour of walking. I felt so empty while slipping through mud and mashes. After a good meal in the first cabin I arrived at, only 6 km from where I started, both my mood and the weather lightened considerably. With the impressive Okstind mountains to my right and the promise of a bed somewhere in front of me, I continued through the never-ending, wet landscape.


To exit the forest and reach the gravel road, was a huge relief. The farm I was heading for, Steikvasselv, offered a ride back and forth to the trail, so I got a ride 2 km up the road before I could throw off Mr. Skywalker, take a long, warm shower and go to bed. Hallelujah!

Cloudberries for breakfast. Mmmm!  

Cloudberries for breakfast. Mmmm!  

Steps: 39347